Easy Chai Recipe  

Posted by The Simple Layman

I recently purchased a great tasting Chai drink from a local store but didn't like the aftertaste it left, (made with soy milk), or the cost, ($5.00 a bottle), so I decided to create my own and do it using a raw cashew milk since I am trying to convert to raw recipes, (no, not raw meat and I don't recommend it).

Cashews make a wonderful creamy milk.  I started by filling my blender with 20 ounces of water.  Next I added 1/2 cup of raw cashews.  Next I added one chai tea bag, (cut the end open and pour out the tea ingredients of the bag into the blender and discard the paper). I used "Celestial Seasonings Teahouse Chai," but you can use any you prefer. Add 1/2 to 3/4 cup of agave nectar, ( or equivalent honey, cane sugar, or regular table sugar, depending on your tastes and how sweet you want it).  I used agave nectar because it has a lower glycemic index than sugar or honey. After initial blending, add water to bring the volume in the blender to 32 ounces.



Other options are using other types of milk; almond milk, sesame milk, etc.  I do not know how these would taste but cashews do great as a milk.  Also, you can use 3/4- 1 cup of cashews if you really want it creamy.  It cost me aproximately  $.75 per 32 ounce jar.  Since I prefer to mix the milk out of the jar with fifty-percent water I get 64 ounces out of a batch,  but you could drink it straight as blended for a creamier mix.  I also use a commercial blender so you may have to filter the final product if you do not have a commercial blender.

be forwarned, raw cashew milk doesn't last long, even refrigerated, (about 2-3 days at the most), so drink it up!  Here's a summary of what you need.

1 decent blender
1 32 ounce jar or container
1 chai teabag, cut at the end and poured into the blender
1/2 to 3/4 cup raw cashews
1/2 to 3/4 cup agave nectar, (or equivalent in honey or sugar to taste).
20 ounces of water for the initial blend, (and remainder to bring volume to 32 ounces once blended).

Mercury Living Presence CD's  

Posted by The Simple Layman

One of the things I like is music I grew up with.  My dad had a couple of albums by "Mercury" that he listened to when I as a kid.  They were some of the earliest "stereo" recordings at the time, and of course, listening to them on cheap record players I never really appreciated their sound with all the "pops" and scratches.

I've always liked classical music, I picked that up from my dad who also loved it.  He went to a music conservatory for a year and could have been a concert pianist and was recommended to do so.  I believe it was WWII that changed that for him.  In any case, he loved music in general, and I can remember him listening, sometimes for hours to music.


One of my favorites


With the advent of CD I moved away from record albums to some extent.  I have found a few over the years in mint condition and have committed to copying them from my turntable to a digital format to listen to.  I still have a few of my dad's records but don't play them because they wore out a long time ago.  Some I have replaced with newer copies on CD and some with mint recordings I have found along the way.

I believe it was five years ago when I saw my first cd copy of the old Mercury Records recordings they had begun committing to cd.  They had been out for a couple of years unknown to me. It was a copy in our library that I checked out.  I had remembered them sounding pretty good but was really amazed at hearing them in the digital format.  It sounded more full and rich with clearer highs, full bodied bass, and cleaner sound than many of my cd's with recordings made completely digital from original recording to finished cd.  I could hear distinct separations of instrments in the listening field and their placements in the orchestra.

This was the first one I purchased


Mercury Records began making stereo recordings in the early fifties using a state of the art process for them.  They used only three microphones and recorded it to a three channel recorder built just for this purpose.  Many of the recordings were practiced but recorded in just one take.  They began using 1/2 inch magnetic tape, (1/4inch magnetic tape was used for the old 8 track, reel to reel, and 1/8 inch for cassettes).  Later, they advance to 35mm film stock because of it's lower noise and more consistant recording.  The use of the three strategically placed microphones produced a more realistic sound but unlike today's recordings, once the sound was committed to tape it couldn't be mixed and altered as thoroughly as today's recordings with their sixteen, twenty-four, and thirty-two track recording consoles.  But their straight forward clarity and warmth keeps me listening to them.  I hope to increase my library of them.  On the same note, the RCA "Living Stereo" Recordings from around the same time period were done in a similar fashion and have a larger library available, (60 recordings), that have been given the same sort of quality treatment if you want to try some of those too.  I particularly like the Mario Lanza recording and the Boston Pops recordings.


This one is the second one I bought



Cover art I downloaded for the purpose of showing the one I am currently listening to from our local library and will be purchasing on ebay in the next day or two-

If you want to listen to some great timeless recordings from a by-gone day, these are the ones to listen to.


My Review Of The Canoscan 9000F-Part 2  

Posted by The Simple Layman


After the scanner arrived and I unpacked it the first thing I noticed was it's bulky size. While not any bulkier than some standard flatbed scanner, it was still bulkier than our smaller Canon Lide60 that sat on my wife's desk and had become the workhorse for our family. The bulkiness did not take long to get used to and it now sits next to my computer as my newest friend.

My intitial concern was having to put Microsoft Windows back onto my computer to make the program work. The scanner comes with Canon's own scan program, Archsoft photo, and Adobe 8 photo elements. None of these programs are compatible with linux. I had opted out of using windows several years ago choosing the benefits of open source computer software over the expensive windows software and applications you had to purchase over and over with each newer operating system microsoft produced. While I am currently working on finding the necessary open source software to support it, it does run fairly functional on my Virtual box windows XP Installation which I only use for some older programs that aren't supported anymore. I haven't bought any new windows software for about 5 or 6 years now.

The scanner comes with three film holders; one for negatives, one for slides, and one for 120 format. At this point of time I do not want to go into the software and how to work it. I found the software fairly intuitive and experimentation is the only way anyone can achieve the results they desire personally. Canon does not list a D-max value for the printer but I found it capable, at least for me, where shadow detail is concerned. It was even able to pick up or differenciate between the iris on an eye in a scan of a picture I took years ago of my mother. This was not visible even with dodging techniques when I printed it on photo paper.

Scan of my mom taken from the Kodak Tri-X film negative.  Just "right-click" on the images to open a new window, then click on the image to see a fullsize image.















Below is a crop section showing the eye.





The scanner can scan up to a 9000 dpi, although as I understand it, acutal mechanical resolution is only available up to 4800 dpi and the rest is done through some kind of software doubling effect. I couldn't go into it more because I wasn't really interested. The higher quality Nikon and Minolta scanners only got aroung the 4000 resolution as I recall so that was enough for me. Dpi is only one judge of resolution. The actual sharpness of the lense is more important to me and I don't remember any statistics for this. The best way to judge it is subjective at best. I figured that since Nikon and Minolta both made cameras with sharp lenses, the Canon would do well too since it was a camera manufacturer. In my opinion, this is true of the Canonscan 9000F. It's lense is within the range of sharpness I expected and it is probably the best film scanner available within the price range which most people can afford.

The fact that most people aren't that quality concious with photography and simple 4 x6 prints are what most people want, high tech film photography will be left strictly to professionals who can afford it. Expensive film scans will eventually be the only way to go for those who cling to the format. This may be the last chance to get a decent scanner that can do all of your film before the film industry totally dies off in the wake of digital. There is increasingly less interest for film, and partly with good reason. Look at all the advantages for both the industry and the person.

  • Better detail in images
  • No dust
  • More pictures “turn out” and those that don't you just delete.
  • No waiting to see your pictures. Just view them at the store kiosk, on your computer, online, or in a photo frame.
  • No negatives to store. Store hundreds on cd or thousands on dvd and blu-ray discs.
  • No need to take them to store for printing at all if you keep a quality printer and don't mind the higher cost of printing yourself
  • Send them for printing over the internet from where ever you are. No need to drive to the store twice.
  • Reduced cost for the printing industry. No need to keep a film developing machine or film scanner. Now you can make money just printing the photos.
  • Don't have to worry about keeping film chemistry fresh of risk ruining someones negatives.

    Let's face it, even the cheapest digital camera pictures look better that the old 110, 127, and 35mm prints from the cheap consumer camera of the past.

Below is a picture of the film/slide mounts. The 120 mount has a plastic piece that slide under the negative and helps hold it up to prevent buckling of the film. They seem to be sturdy enough. My concern is whether they will hold up without breaking. Time will tell. They seem to hold the negative flat enough except for the 35 mm strip. If you are using a 4 frame negative, (which is the way most photo stores cut them), then the one loose end will curl at the end. To prevent this, turn the negative around and scan the one frame separately. I would think this would be a problem for most film scanners.


One of the considerations is that flatbed scanners generally have more of a dust problem because they are open instead of feeding the negative through soft brushes that remove some dust when the negative enters the dedicated film type scanner. You will need to be more dust diligent. There is a program called “fare” that does a decent job of removing dust. This program, as other type of programs, usually cause some loss of sharpness. Also, they cannot remove all dust and will not remove the worst cases. Whether or not you choose to use these type of programs, you will still need to prevent as much dust to begin with.

Overall, I found the Canoscan 9000F to be just what I needed. For a guy who couldn't afford the more expensive dedicated film scanners on the market that would perhaps later just sit in a closet collecting dust, this scanner meets all of my needs.  After all, who knows if film even be around in ten years?  If my film cameras break will I even be able to get parts or have them fixed?  Will I want to?  This scanner makes great regular scans too so I will have it for that if it holds up.

Just a couple of notes.  First, if the film is placed in the holders correctly, then the scan will be reversed of the way the picture will look.  In other words, you will have to "flip" the photo over for it to look correct.  Otherwise, the picture will be backwards and any words in the photo, (signs, printed material, etc.), will read backwards.  The proper way is for the emulsion side to face down.

Second, if you can get used to the advance feature instead of the basic, then you can do a lot of preliminary adjustments to color and dust removal before you actually scan the photo.  This is made possible because the preview feature of the scanner makes a quick pass for previewing all the photos you are scanning.  I do not use the bundled Adobe & Archsoft photo processing programs although they are fine programs.  I have been using Google's picassa & Gimp which are open source programs for years and am used to them and prefer them.

A few more scans from the Canoscan 9000F:

A pic of my wife, (center), and a enlargement of just her from a slide, (sorry, the complete fullsize image shown here is a low quality pic so don't try to get a full size view of it).  I have manually  touched it up.



An unretouched scan from a 120 black & white negative. Not sure what film type; seems to be an off brand. Sorry, the slide and the 120 are not professional shots and I did not take them.



An un-retouched scan from a color polaroid film negative I used to test a camera I repaired.


Coming up.  A comparison of a couple of scans done locally compared to the scans from the Canoscan 9000F.  How will it compare?  Do-no at this time. Got to go cut grass and run some errands.  Let you know when I get back.